Sunday, January 27, 2008

Ideas for a Lined Coif

Although my first coif is bangin', I'm going to try a slight variation on it today. As I stated before, it was not uncommon for a lady of wealth and status to have an embroidered silk coif. This would often be lined because the silk was not washable. It kept hair oil off of the silk. I am going to attmept a lined coif. My outer layer is going to be an offwhite woven material with an ivy pattern. I chose this material because the pattern reminded me of the embroidery on some of the silk coifs seen here. While my material is not silk (its more like wool, which would be period) it is not washable, so it needs to be lined. For the lining, I'm going to use the same white mystery fabric I used on my other coif. I will also be adding a white lace edging. Historically, edging could be white, offwhite, black, or metalic. If you plan to use lace, I reccomend you look at pictures to try and get a feel for what the laces of the time looked like.

I will be using my adaption (its resized) of this pattern. Steps will be as follows:
1) Cut out pattern from both fabrics
2) Hem curved edges and bottom
3) Pin the two pieces with wrong sides together
4) Sew together 1/4" from bottom edge
5) Sew another seam 3/4" above the bottom edge. This will create a drawstring channel.
6) With the two pieces together, gather stitch across the top from 5" from one edge to 5" from the other edge 1/2" down from the top of the fabric. Stitches should be 1/4" in length. These should be done by hand. Leave about 6" extra thread on each end of your line of stitches.
7) Repeat above 1/4" from top of fabric
8) Fold the piece in half with the lining to the outside. Pin together.
9) Sew the top together 1/2" from the top from the curved edge to 1/2" in front of the gather stitching.
10) Pin the lace into the curved edges between the two layers of fabric. Sew. (this might need to be done by hand - it will be fussy on machine) Be certain not to sew closed the drawstring channel.
11) Pull the gather stitches as tight as you can and tie the ends together. Make sure the gather ends up on the lining side of the hat.
12) Thread the drawstring through the channel.
This should finish it. We'll see how it goes.

Some links I didn't post before:
1) How to wear the coif:
2) Amazing Reproduction V&A coif:

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